Word: mentaiko
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Darwin is alive and well in Nish's recipes. On a Thursday evening in the gleaming basement kitchen, a worker dots a carpaccio of lobster that rests on a shiso leaf with dollops of mentaiko, or spicy cod roe, and uni, or sea urchin. "The first time I made that, I thought I'd sell a couple to Japanese customers," Nish says. "Instead, it's become one of my most popular dishes." Another worker shaves thin circles of black truffle to decorate a wedge of hamachi, or yellowtail, sizzling in a pan of duck fat and bacon morsels...
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