Word: michelins
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...York book ($16.95) is Michelin's first guide to restaurants outside Europe. It's more colorful and comprehensive than Euro editions; all starred restaurants receive a two-page spread, including a recipe, which will become the new format for all Michelin guides. Its classy feel is marred only by the occasional ad for tires and other Michelin products...
...While none of this surprised New York foodies, Michelin's inspectors seemed oddly enamored with a Greenwich Village "gastro-pub," the Spotted Pig, which won a precious star for its hearty burgers, Irish Stout and liver with onions. How so? The guide lauds fancier dishes such as octopus salad with celery hearts and praises the restaurant's "friendly staff" and ambience that "just oozes character." Naret says inspectors grant stars according to five criteria, including the quality of the food, consistency across the menu and the "creativity of the chef." He adds, "To have a star means it's really...
...question for Michelin, of course, is whether its star system and fork-and-spoon ratings for "comfort" are coming to America too late to be relevant. In France, Michelin has traditionally lionized places in villages and towns in the countryside, inspiring foodies in Paris and Lyon to hop in Le Car (and wear out the tires). Yet it's hard to imagine New Yorkers really needing to be informed, via another guide, that Le Bernardin serves three-star-caliber seafood or that the best porterhouse in town is at Peter Luger (recipient of a star). And tourists can pick...
...carry the same weight it did before the Internet and online message boards like Chowhound.com democratized the review process. "It used to drive a lot more business," says Bouley. "The younger generation may not be so attracted to a four-star restaurant." In other words, it's doubtful Michelin will make or break a restaurant in New York like it can in France...
...Over at Zagat, co-publisher Nina Zagat says she's not worried about Michelin muscling in on her turf. She maintains that her guide, now in its 27th year and selling more than 650,000 copies annually, is geared to everyday New Yorkers, while Michelin's seems oriented to tourists "looking for that one blowout meal. They're telling people what places fit their criteria. It's a totally different approach to ours." Michelin won't divulge its publication plans other than to say guides to other U.S. cities are forthcoming. Let the food fight begin...