Word: michelins
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...youth on his first date, Allen had taken Nancy out. He moved on. Here was a pair of children's wooden Dutch shoes, there a few color slides of castles in Germany, some gay apparel, a brochure about Strat-'ford-on-Avon, a movie camera, a green Michelin guide to Paris, a little girl's dress, picture postcards from Florence, a half-burned evening slipper. "I knew nearly every one of them," said the mayor of Atlanta. "I went to school with some of them. I was in business with others. I was in love with some...
...France, where a great chef can earn more glory than a general, the supreme accolade for a restaurant is a chaste *** in the Guide Michelin. Less a guidebook than the culinary conscience of France, the plump red volume is an annual honors list grading 3,036 (of 60,000) French restaurants and 6,600 hotels from Calais to the Côte d'Azur. Until this year the Guide counted only ten eating places-four in Paris-worthy of three-star grandeur, promising "the glory of French cooking," with "price no object."* The award of a single star usually...
...Cassandras have been predicting disaster for one of the capital's Big Four: Maxim's, Lapérouse, Grand Vefour, Tour d'Argent (which was demoted to ** in 1952, restored in 1954). Last week, within minutes of the Guide's release, gastronomes learned that, instead, Michelin had pinned a third star on Lasserre, an epicurean pavilion off the Champs-Elysées. Among its celebrated specialties: Sole fourrée Bagatelle ($2.20), breaded filets stuffed with lobster, mushrooms, truffles and cream sauce; Steak Dumas ($2.80), grilled, covered with beef marrow, and smothered in sauce of shallots...
Breathed Owner René Lasserre, 49, still misty-eyed with emotion: "A real restaurateur can't hope for more." Said an editorial in Paris-Presse: "Michelin, the lighthouse of our gastronomic navigation, has finally illuminated, with its ineffable light, one of the youngest, most beloved and elegant of Paris restaurants...
Though the patron had no inkling of their presence, eleven different experts had eleven different meals at Lasserre before reaching their final verdict, which was added to a dossier on the restaurant that dates back to its opening in 1950. The Michelin inspectors are a kind of Palate Guard chosen for their iron digestions, sensitive palates and impeccable integrity. In keeping with the Guide's slogan. Pas de piston, pas de pot de vin (roughly, no pull, no payoffs), they arrive alone and unannounced, sample food and wine, reveal their identities only when they have finished eating...