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Young though it is, the microbrew industry already has its rivalries. The highest status is claimed by the smallest producers. Uli Bennewitz, co-owner of the Weeping Radish Bavarian Restaurant & Brewery on Roanoke Island, N.C., prides himself on his Hopfen beer, which is so fresh it never enters a keg. "We brew it in one room and pipe it right into the next," he says. That might seem much too limited to Jim Koch, whose Boston Beer Co. sold 24,000 bbl. of Samuel Adams lager last year. Purists may look askance at Samuel Adams because it is a "contract...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Food: Roll Out the Barrel | 11/9/1987 | See Source »

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