Word: midcalf
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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Only one year ago, when designers began gingerly experimenting with hemlines lowered to midcalf (midi) or ankle (maxi). British Mod Designer Mary Quant, 34, who hiked up the first miniskirts, declared: "The miniskirt is here to stay." She says she still thinks so-although nearly half the 80 dresses she showed in London for next fall and winter were either midi or maxi. Quoth Quant: "It's not that the mini is out. It has such freedom of movement that I'll always use it. But why should I get hung up on one particular hemline...
...Hood with leather leggings and jaunty plumed hats by Milliner Archie Eason, worn perhaps with a short, checked polo coat and matching shorts, or with a pony-skin raincoat. If she would rather be Tom Sawyer, Chester Weinberg has just the thing: avocado green velvet overalls that come to midcalf, and are topped by a lace-trimmed blouse. With George Stavropoulos, she can play the Greek goddess in classical floor-length gowns trailing yards of filmy chiffon...
Hemlines? Since the midcalf Maxi skirts began showing up in Paris earlier this spring, the question has been whether or not skirts would take a big plunge this fall. Rest easy, men: skirts are still flying high. "There's no controversy about skirt lengths as long as they're twelve inches above the knee," wags Gernreich. Actually, he will ship them five inches longer than that-which is a good idea, since a skirt much shorter is no skirt at all. And, to be on the safe side, Rudi recommends double skirts-a longer underskirt for ordinary streetwear...
...Paris' Coco Chanel, who calls the miniskirt "the most absurd weapon woman has ever employed to seduce men," two of France's biggest ready-to-wear designers, Daniel Hechter and Jacques Delahaye, are now showing "maxi jupes" for autumn that reach all the way down to the midcalf. Hechter and Delahaye, who sell to leading department stores the world over, including Bonwit Teller and Neiman Marcus, are receiving orders for them by the thousands. In the U.S., three fast-rising young ready-to-wear designers-Coty Award Winner Dominic of Matty Talmack, plus Chester Weinberg and Luba...
Short skirts also mean new lengths in stockings. Courreges recommends tennis socks that rise to midcalf; Ungaro pulls his stockings two inches above the knee. And for Palm Beach, the Duchess of Windsor is packing along a pair of Givenchy's yellow knee socks to go with her Dior cullotte. What ever the length, bright, solid colors are in and applied dimensional texture is out; the pattern, if any, is now being knit right into the fabric...