Word: midi
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...midi goes to great lengths to look like a loser. Unflattering (except over legs that never quit and hips that never start) and impractical (except to cover up a bad case of knees), the latest dress length seems as anachronistic as the New Look and more of a drag than the bustle...
...politicians were discussing was hemlines. The subject heated up as a result of Mme. Georges Pompidou's triumphant American tour with those calf-clutching Longuettes from Paris. In women's eyes, at least, Mme. Pompidou just may have tipped the scales in the year's mini-midi-maxi skirmish. In the front line of the battle, Los Angeles-based James Galanos became the first American designer to drop all hemlines below the knee; Paris' Bernard Lanvin is scraping ankles. Manhattan's Geoffrey Beene alone seems determined to keep the knee in the public domain...
...attire delighted U.S. manufacturers, designers and women's publications already committed to following the French Longuette look, which was emphasized at the Paris show in January. It dismayed strong-willed women and Seventh Avenue manufacturers still loyal to the miniskirt. For what better advertisement for the midi or Le Long Look than France's long first lady...
Added Mystery. One designer who refuses to be pushed to damned lengths is Rudi Gernreich: "I'm very much against the midi because it's illogical. It's like going to Mme. Tussaud's." Says Bill Blass, "I'm bored with fashion dictatorship. Women are not going to wear something just because it's publicized...
Chanel kept her hems right where they have always been, demurely covering the knee and, just by standing still, came out ahead of the game. Marc Bohan was not sure who was winning: so as not to offend either team, he showed see-through, midi-length chiffon evening dresses with minislips worn underneath. But it was Pierre Cardin who saved the day for leg fetishists with a series of long skirts that are almost as revealing as the mini, and even more alluring. The Cardin trick: a slit that runs from ankle to thigh, occurs either at the sides...