Word: milan
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DIED. Roberto Calvi, 62, scandal-plagued president of Milan's Banco Ambrosiano, Italy's largest privately owned bank, in whose subsidiaries a shortfall of $1.4 billion was discovered; of strangulation; in London. Calvi, who started 37 years ago as a clerk and went on to become one of Italy's leading financial operators, was nicknamed "God's Banker" because of the Vatican's substantial dealings with the Banco Ambrosiano. At the time of his death, he was appealing a four-year sentence for illicitly exporting $26.4 million in violation of Italian currency laws...
...fully staged opera under ideal working conditions during his tenure. Since 1968, when he performed Mozart's The Marriage of Figaro at the Met, Giulini has turned down all offers to conduct opera in the theater. Accustomed to only new productions at such major opera houses as Milan's La Scala and London's Covent Garden, Giulini admits, "I was a little spoiled...
Like many men without families, Armani has adopted his own, most of whom are employees of long standing who weekend with him at a converted farm house that he owns jointly with Galeotti, in Forte dei Marmi, about three hours' drive from Milan. The decoration there is a kind of bucolic adaptation of the Milan digs, with the same aquatic excess: in this case, an Olympic-size pool. For sun, and the summers, Armani, Galeotti and pals repair to a Moorish-style domed house on the island of Pantelleria, 50 miles off the coast of Tunisia, where nature...
Lauren, like Armani, began as a designer of men's wear, and both started cutting from the same English bias. The man from Milan worked his unstructured radicalization; Lauren stayed as close as possible to tradition, re-establishing and rejustifying it. His clothes, at first, were deliberately evocative of the 1920s and made their way- in a fashion that would both help and haunt him-into the 1974 film The Great Gatsby. More recently, Lauren has looked west for inspiration. His "prairie look" last fall for women, with the hem of a petticoat peeking out from under a skirt...
...trash and wanted a smarter look," says Pinky. "We discovered silk, which we used for sportswear." Their designs are sassy and declarative, their colors showy but controlled. "We make clothes for a more urban lady, a sophisticate who follows the fashion magazines," says Pinky, who was recently in Milan showing off a collection at a small hotel whose proprietor clears the entire premises when the two women move in. Their new line for fall features short skirts, knitted sweater dresses with hefty shoulders tapering down to a mid-thigh hemline, and Irish tweed overcoats that look like a Black...