Word: milan
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...thoroughly captured and made over this little pocket of the present that when he decided not to show his new fall women's line during the semiannual glitz and giddiness known loosely as the Milan collections, he incurred the wrath of the press but walked off with the honors anyway. "Armani is the king of the Italian Alps," says Geraldine Stutz, president of the modish New York City department store Henri Bendel. The assorted princesses, princelings and pretenders scattered about the feudal fashion kingdom of Milan sent their models gadding down runways in all the latest...
...success were by no means clear twelve years ago, when Armani had to be cajoled away from his steady $40,000-a-year job designing men's wear for Nino Cerruti. It took the considerable persuasive powers of Sergio Galeotti, then 25 and a draftsman in a leading Milan architectural firm, to lure Armani from the kind of early middle-aged complacency he was slipping into. Armani, the second of three children of a transport-company manager in Piacenza, 40 miles southeast of Milan, grew up during World War II and remembers waking up screaming from nightmares about...
...receptionist remains-now promoted to the sales department-but the capital has grown apace with the headquarters, today located on the first floor of a 17th century palazzo in the heart of Milan. Frescoes cover the walls and ceiling of Armani's office, from which mythological characters gaze impassively at the modern furniture (including a couple of nifty long draftsman's desks designed by Armani), models, staff and assorted items of evolving wardrobe. Armani has positioned paneling and mirrors around the room so that the frescoes can claim his attention only from above. "In Florence, you would look...
...Milan apartment, on a dead-end street only a short walk from his office in Palazzo Durini, is a sort of luxury-class version of a Japanese monk's cell. He shares the seven rooms with a gray Persian cat named Micio. Except for Micio and a Japanese screen, practically everything in the living area was designed by Armani himself, who is mulling over the addition of furniture to his assorted ventures. Certainly the low couches and chairs here, all covered with satinized cotton, and the sculpted rectangular table in a favorite Armani shade of taupe, represent a strong...
...fuller and more feminine than the tight, boxy '60s style. "Flippy" is the word used by some skirt watchers. Says New York's Cuban-born designer Adolfo: "The old minis looked like clothes that had been chopped off at the bottom. Now they are different, looser." Adds Milan's Giorgio Armani: "The new miniskirt is not stiff and straight but soft, fitted at the hips and gathered for a short volume effect. It is also a natural evolution toward femininity after the dizzying circus of pants, knickers, Bermudas, gauchos and Zouaves." Valentino, the dean of Italian designers...