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...There are places you could get into trouble for this," scolds Brioni's communications director, Alessandra Alla. But not Milan, so Angeloni, 53, continues peeling off his vest to demonstrate what is special about a Brioni suit. He pulls up the lapel to display a cashmere backing (as opposed to the traditional felt) and a special thread to hold a boutonniere in place. He shows off a barely perceptible extra chest seam that requires a painstaking matching of stripes. He points out secret pockets and buttonholes stitched to look as good on the inside as out. (The buttonholes are stitched...
Brioni, headquartered on the Via Gesł in the heart of Milan's shopping district, was founded in Rome in 1945 by tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and his entrepreneurial Roman partner, Gaetano Savini. Fonticoli had been trained in the Abruzzo school of tailoring, which blends cutting and stitching techniques borrowed from Savile Row with softer, Mediterranean-inspired lines. The pair's Sartoria Brioni on the Via Barberini was named after the Croatian islands of Brijuni, a glamorous golf and polo getaway favored by Italian aristocrats in the 1920s...
Although the bespoke service (the term comes from the English tradition of setting aside a client's fabric, which was said to be "spoken for") is limited to Rome and Milan and accounts for only 3% of Brioni's sales, Angeloni says it's what differentiates the brand from others. Today most of the company's business is in off-the-rack suits, priced from $2,600 and available in the same quality fabrics and with the same buttons used for the bespoke versions. A quarter of the company's 1,600 employees worldwide are trained tailors. About...
WHAT IS IT WITH all that luggage marching down fashion runways? Last season Miuccia Prada loaded down her waiflike models with rolling suitcases. And at the recent menswear shows in Milan, Valentino outfitted a jet-set couple with their own airport trolley, right, complete with a signature red set (clearly he doesn't intend for this pair to stop at baggage claim). "Luggage is the obvious next step after handbags," says Robert Burke, former fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman. "It makes a lot of money for the designers, and it can stay on the floor for a year, whereas...
Just as happens in the Olympics, where a star comes along and does something quite different from anything seen before, every so often a designer will, for no apparent reason, show something completely out of synch with everything else. In Milan, that designer is usually Miuccia Prada. After several seasons of staying on the groomed slopes, she likes to veer off piste. This season Prada showed a collection as unexpected as it was aggressive. Her models came storming down the winding runway in oversize nylon anoraks and long, slouched-on black coats worn over heavy knit dresses and chunky platform...