Word: milan
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...Notebook The preppy handbook: menswear news from Milan. Plus, the A list, frescoes in Florence, Roger Vivier shoes and Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima...
...Billion men's-clothing business was down 8% at the end of last year, but bold colors, preppy brights and a seriously groomed look are poised to give the lackluster market a major boost. At the recent fall 2004 menswear shows in Milan, designers like Ralph Lauren and Jil Sander showed classic pieces that could have walked straight out of an Ivy League yearbook. "It's a very cleaned-up, dressy look," says Michael Macko, director of men's fashion merchandising at Saks Fifth Avenue. "Its roots are in English preppy style...
...MILAN Ever since Tod's owner, Diego Della Valle, opened a store featuring his menswear label Fay, it has been a top seller. The Superlight jacket, left, comes in high-performing fabrics with indetectable compact padding...
...above-the-fray quality. And a flat-out disregard for what you think. Which brings us to Miuccia Prada. The rise of Mrs. Prada, as she is known to her Italian staff members, is a well-known tale--your basic story of a onetime communist and mime student from Milan who takes over her family's dusty luggage company and, with the help of her go-getting husband, turns it into a luxury conglomerate that in 2002 had revenues of about $1.9 billion. Her power, first manifested in the minimal black nylon backpack draped over every influential...
Prada has few celebrity friends. She lives in the apartment she grew up in. And, of course, season after season, she sends intelligent, beautiful and, inasmuch as anything in fashion can be, sui generis collections down the Milan runways. "If you want to know what a season is about, you don't miss the Prada show," says Julie Gilhart, fashion director for Barneys. "She never follows anyone else's lead, just her own original energy. Her collections are completely an expression of herself...