Word: millau
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...trendy, fiercely competitive world of grande cuisine. After only 1% years of operation, the Restaurant Michel Guérard at the spa in Eugenie-les-Bains near Lourdes is about to receive a top rating of 19 points in this year's edition of the Guide Gault-Millau, France's sprightliest food publication. (The spa also has a gourmand menu for the calorie-careless.) The more conservative and authoritative Guide Michelin, which awarded two stars to Guérard's first restaurant, Le Pot au Feu, outside Paris, has just given two stars to the Eugenie...
...voyage capped four years of effort by Gourmet-Author Henri Gault (TIME, Nov. 19,1973). Gault and his colleague Christian Millau have become known through their guidebooks and monthly magazine as the evangelists of la nouvelle cuisine française which celebrates practicality and provincial simplicity in reaction against the ornate, heavy, highly stylized haute cuisine of French tradition. To make Mermoz a ship of drools, Gault lured aboard...
...trumpet for this gastronomic treason is Le Nouveau Guide Gault-Millau, a glossy, 120-odd-page journalistic compendium of recipes, restaurant reviews and guides, plus lengthy culinary debates. The monthly magazine, now four years old, evolved from the two editors' decade-long collaboration on 18 guidebooks to France and beyond. "G. and M." as some call the Paris-based magazine, exerts influence far beyond its 145,000 circulation. Its editors are currently dashing the chauvinistic notion that to be gustatorily gifted is to be French. They regularly grade domestic Chinese, Indian, Indonesian and Vietnamese food...
Whatever the dining spot, Gault and Millau, unlike some other food critics, never accept free meals. Often the pair sup at inexpensive, as yet unestablished restaurants. Le Guide Michelin, the staid bible of French cuisine, generally evaluates only the notable and reserves judgment for three years...
Unlike many of their French newspaper competitors (and like U.S. food critics), Gault and Millau consistently name names. If commenting on Maxim's, they avoid such coy evasions as "a well-known restaurant on the Rue Royale." As a result, they sometimes face the fury of advertisers and libel suits. Of one establishment they recently wrote: "The fish soup was watery, the lobster brochette insipid . . . Only the maitre d'hôtel had a smile on his face." The offending Marseille restaurant-appropriately named Le New York -lost not only customers but the libel suit as well...