Word: millau
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...publishers of the Guide Gault-Millau plan to appeal the Mr. Chow verdict. Henri Millau suggested that the suit was "a publicity stunt," adding: "I guess that in the next few days people will flock to his restaurant and they will no doubt be sadly disappointed by the so-called authentic Chinese cooking." Said New York City Restaurant Critic Mimi Sheraton (who also pans Mr. Chow's): "It was the most outrageous award I've ever heard of. If this decision were upheld, I would feel inhibited in writing reviews in the future." At the very least...
...Michael Chow, proprietor of Mr. Chow's Chinese restaurant in Manhattan, the key questions facing the jury were purely factual ones. Was Guide Gault-Millau correct in asserting that the pancakes served with his Peking duck were "the size of a saucer and the thickness of a finger"? Was it true that his "sweet-and-sour pork contained more dough (badly cooked) than meat," as the pugnacious Parisian guide to New York City proclaimed? To prove otherwise, Chow brought his chef into Manhattan federal district court to demonstrate to the jury his technique for making paper-thin pancakes...
...mouth-watering evidence was persuasive. The jurors decided that Chow, who also owns restaurants in London and Beverly Hills, had been libeled by the Gault-Millau review and awarded him $20,000 in compensatory damages along with a $5 tip for punitive damages. The Shanghai-born restaurateur feels that justice was done. Said he: "Freedom of the press is designed to protect the right to tell the truth, not to print lies...
...wittiest, if not the surest, books are the Gault/Millau guides (Crown; $11.95 each) to Paris, London, New York and France. The work of two dedicated French cuisinartistes, to whom a badly cooked meal is a personal, nay national, affront, Henri Gault and Christian Millau's assessments of hotels and restaurants are unfortunately often more informed with high passion than sound taste. More reliable is the august Guide Michelin, long the three-starred supreme arbiter of hotels, restaurants and touring, not so much written as compiled as if by God himself...
...water. Attendants also take care of all passport formalities. The bubbly flows. People meet and chat easily. The meals, whipped up in a space hardly bigger than most apartment kitchens, include dinner and a next-day brunch. They would probably earn the rolling restaurant one toque in the Gault-Millau Guide. After dinner, Chef Ranvier gives one impressed guest his recipe for le foie gras de canard cuit naturellement. At brunch, rocketing through the broad plains of northern Italy, there is an exceptional dish of small chickens with Albufera sauce. The wine cellar on wheels is more than adequate...