Word: mink
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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...young," according to Furrier Jacques Kaplan, "who are making furs an up-front fashion. They do not want status, just warmth and style." With youth in mind, and to revive a market that dropped 40% in sales between 1947 and 1967, Kaplan branched out into inexpensive furs like mink paw, fitch and squirrel. When they caught on, he went farther still-this year into wildcat, Spanish bull and monkey...
...MINK and sable, the Big Two of the fur world, can still be seen on the salon racks, regal as ever in traditional brown or black. But their luster is somewhat diminished this season by bright new competitors designed to make the fur-and the fur sales-fly. Right up there with the mink and the sable, the chinchilla, the ermine and the fox, are such low-status pelts as wolf, monkey, weasel, bull and yak. Without examining the label, however, even a zoologist would have trouble identifying the newcomers. For the furs have become checked, striped, flowered and wholly...
Kaplan's colleagues are hard on his heels. Emeric Partos will not tamper in any major way with the Big Two: "A mink is a mink," he says with reverence, "and a sable is a sable, and I will not tear them, trim them or tuck them." Nonetheless, Partos has rimmed a black Alaskan seal cape with flowers made of 40 different ersatz shades of mink. Revillon Furs' designer Fernando Sanchez likes a long-haired mink, worn with the fur inside, that presents a hairless-though embossed-exterior...
Five-Finger Exercise. It was Madame Potok, grande dame at Maximilian Furs, who first treated fur like a fabric; an old-style mink coat weighed twelve pounds before she scissored away at waists and armholes, sleeves and bulky seams and reduced the total to a mere four pounds. This year's collection moves Madame Potok to grandiloquence. "For the girl who forgot her gloves," she has a broadtail coat whose sleeves drip ermine over naked hands ($7,800); "for unheated castles," there is a black mink, floor-length caftan with a gold-beaded bib front...
...minor disaster. In show business, Siam's psychiatrist suggests, the cost of success to the aspiring individual is protective deformity. "These men and women," says the doctor, "have derangements that successfully fit them for their occupations. Cure an executive and you lower his income. Their mink-lined psychosis is one of the country's sacred mental illnesses because it helps keep the status...