Word: miso
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...sashimi course elaborately composed on handmade ceramics. Fragrant matsutake mushrooms evoke autumn, while Kobe beef melts in the mouth like foie gras. Dishes like sesame tofu are nods to Kyoto's Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. At the end comes the spiritual heart of the meal: rice, pickles and the best miso soup around. If Umu sounds traditional, it isn't. The reinvented Kyoto flavors are restrained, but the trendy London setting is not. A hidden door on the streets of tony Mayfair glides back at a touch on a lighted panel. Inside, it's opulent yet relaxed, designed to make everyone...
...Falstaffian proportions and equally wide-ranging tastes, Overton wants his food to be both popular and populist. "The stuffiness of waiters? That's got to go," he says. Not everyone can afford the $30 miso-glazed black cod made famous by Nobu, but the Cheesecake Factory's best-selling miso salmon is only $18 and three times the size. "Why should that memorable food experience be limited?" asks Bob Okura, the Cheesecake Factory's corporate executive chef. Critics call the portions a gimmick; health policy experts call them a dangerous contribution to obesity; the Cheesecake Factory sees value, encouraging customers...
...fusion trend of the early '90s. Knipp, who has lived here for 26 years, can remember a time when every high-end restaurant jumped on the fusion bandwagon, mixing caviar with cumin and foie gras with fennel. Some combinations were daring?such as naturally sweet cod fish and salty miso?but most were mediocre at best. "A lot of chefs don't know how to use Asian ingredients," says Stroobant...
...Motobu, Okinawa, wakes at 6 a.m., in the house in which he was born, and opens the shutters. "It's a sign to my neighbors," he says, "that I am still alive." He does stretching exercises along with a radio broadcast, then eats breakfast: whole-grain rice and miso soup with vegetables. He puts in two hours of picking weeds in his 1,000-sq.-ft. field, whose crops are goya--a variety of bitter gourd--a reddish-purple sweet potato called imo, and okra. A fellow has to make a living, so Toguchi buys rice and meat with...
...Porter Exchange is not the place for a splurge, but it transports diners as individual restaurants rarely do. Ambiance and authenticity make it worth the short walk. For a picnic in December, complete with bubble tea and miso, make the trek up Mass Ave. You’ll be happy...