Word: miuccia
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...been influenced by the kind of American style Calvin epitomizes," notes Valerie Steele, a professor at New York City's Fashion Institute of Technology, Klein's alma mater. Indeed, his spare-chic ethos is reflected in the work of everyone from superstars like Donna Karan, Michael Kors and Miuccia Prada to up-and-comers like handbag designer Kate Spade. More significantly, it is the bedrock of the no-fuss aesthetic peddled by the Gap, J. Crew and Banana Republic, increasingly the purveyors of the American uniform...
...TOOK HALF A DECADE and some very lean seasons for most designers to figure out what women were looking for in the '90s. But one, Miuccia Prada, knew the answer all along: wearable clothes with a touch of class. Prada is a cult that is about to become a movement. The popular thing to say about the Prada style is that it looks like nothing--but that is meant as a compliment. Instead of making a bold statement, like Versace or Lacroix, the clothes are unassertive, combining traditional good manners and an ultramodern industrial sleekness...
Thanks to Miuccia, the Milan-based house of Prada has gone from being a staid leather-goods firm to just about the most prized name in the apparel business. There are no clearance sales of Prada clothes; they can be hard to find at full price. The firm, run by Miuccia and her entrepreneur husband Patrizio Bertelli, has been cautious about expansion, but in the next year new outlets will be popping up--Atlanta; Costa Mesa, California; and the Bal Harbour district of Miami. The house now receives the ultimate accolade: it is widely copied. Several outfits in Calvin Klein...
...taste? Miuccia Prada, now 46, grew up in the world of couture, learning about fine fabrics from her mother and wearing Saint Laurent as a teenager. The playoff between the trappings of elegance and industrial streamlining is Prada's signature. Her first designs back in 1979 were backpacks and tote bags cut along classic lines but made of tough nylon used by the Italian army. They are now the '90s equivalent of Louis Vuitton initials. Prada says she was drawn to designing by her overwhelming fascination with clothes and textiles (she still has every outfit she ever bought and lifts...
...Mius are even more of a departure. Almost all the materials used are synthetics. "It's a joke--right design, wrong fabric," Miuccia cries, running her hand through a powder blue Jackie-style polyester sleeveless sheath. The punch line? The fastenings are Velcro. Stretch materials--nylon, gabardine, a georgette that looks like organza--are dominant in the collection...