Word: momofuku
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...north of the Harlem didn't know, or care, what was going on in the culinary avant-garde. They were still stuck eating at Lum's. Now, thanks to all the things the ancient regime most loathes - the Food Network, Top Chef, Eater and other blogs, Tony Bourdain, Momofuku mania, Rachael Ray, celebrity-chef restaurants - America has become as turned on by food as any Ford-era gourmand. But they lack the one thing that the old guard has in spades: perspective...
...David Chang, the chef behind the adored Momofuku restaurants in New York, was more skeptical. "It's never going to lose the name molecular. Hippies don't like being called hippies, but that's what everyone knows them by." Still Chang, who described the panel members as "the Mount Rushmore of current gastronomy," wasn't troubled by the prospect. "This style of cooking, is a language, a code, and it can be intimidating. But only if you don't try to understand it. The boneheads who reject it never ask questions, never ask why someone might cook this...
...favorite stories in this issue, a special supplement to TIME, is about the current trend in no-frills dining. Major chefs like Joël Robuchon of L'Atelier and David Chang of the Momofuku empire are forgoing the usual dining-room luxuries like linen tablecloths, flowers and bread baskets to focus instead on great food and even greater prices. Some of these forward-thinking chefs are going so far as to forfeit waiters too, choosing to serve the food themselves. Needless to say, their establishments are packed. And customers are more than willing to wait...
Food-loving people who don't run hedge funds may have had enough, though. In May the James Beard Awards named David Chang the Rising Star Chef of the Year. His restaurant, the packed Momofuku Noodle Bar in New York City, serves huge bowls of ramen...
...thing spills out ludicrously egg-shaped and ridiculously soft, the yolk suspended between raw and cooked, the cloudy white freed from that slight rubberiness I never knew bothered me until I had an egg without it. David Chang, who drops one in his ramen at New York City's Momofuku, says one of his regulars calls it "a sexy egg." There are apparently a lot of ways to hit on a chef...