Word: mondovino
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...maintain that sense of differentiation." It's not that the best French Burgundies and California Cabernets are losing their terroir. Instead the critics are crying foul over mass-produced wines that hog the grocery-store shelves. A new documentary has poured gasoline on the debate: Jonathan Nossiter's Mondovino is the wine world's Fahrenheit 9/11, an indictment of big corporate wineries that Nossiter claims are killing wine's soul. To such critics, Gallo's international brands are as scary as McDonald's Golden Arches...
Viewers of Mondovino, however, get the additional delicious, if mildly voyeuristic, pleasure of knowing that the film’s heroes, villains, and clowns are all real—so real, in fact, that one can find the fruits of their labor on the shelves of the nearest liquor store...
It’s not quite Nietzche, but it has a similar dour finality that may at first strike the viewer as overblown. After watching Mondovino, however, audiences may well find themselves as passionate about the high-stakes game of winemaking as Guibert...
...Mondovino begins with an account of “L’Affaire Mondavi,” hotshot Napa newcomer Robert Mondavi’s attempt to buy out older vineyards in the Burgundy region of France. From there the documentary spirals wildly to both the deeply individual and personal—one woman’s decision to quit her job; a father’s disapproval of his profit-minded son—and the staggeringly broad—the rights of laborers; the aftermath of fascism; and the costs of globalization...
...Mondovino succeeds in part by appealing to the snob in each of us—the part of our consciousness that cringes at the sight of a newly-constructed Wal-Mart or the phrase “Have it your...