Word: mondrian
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...minutes, the movie sounds like little more than a collection of aphorisms propounded by a nine-year-old. When director Jordan occasionally does seize upon a bright idea, he usually destroys it by overstatement. There is nothing inappropriate, for example, about an aspiring artist like Dreyfuss having a Piet Mondrian painting adorning his wall. It is corny and implausible, however, for him to name his dog Balzac and give a Jersey Kosinski novel to a child who whines and calls his mother "monkey nose...
...that the intricacy of its high-fashion construction is seen: the organza underskirt with horsehair lining in the hem covering a tulle layer and another of silk. Saint Laurent's loose outline for daytime wear turns up repeatedly in his work over the years: the famous Mondrian skimmers of the '60s, the chemise in his latest collection, which has been installed by the fashion press as the silhouette of choice for this winter...
...mini, the pantsuit for day and the androgynous "smoking" for night, boots, turtlenecks, sporty furs. Picasso keeps reappearing, usually in witty design quotations. So do plaids; in 1979, Saint Laurent's heart went deep into the Scottish Highlands, and he made a formidable, fanciful rig. Except for his Mondrian motif, Saint Laurent was not comfortable with minis; the late '60s belonged to André Courrèges. In fact, despite the influence of specific designs, Saint Laurent has not always led a crowd. He raised skirts in 1959, five years too soon. He lowered them in 1964, when...
...rigorous academic grounding under the atelier system at the Art Students League in New York; then large-scale practical experience on the WPA murals in the '30s; finally, three years (1937-40) under the great emigre teacher Hans Hermann, who knew the fabled phoenixes of Europe (Matisse, Kandinsky, Mondrian) and could transmit their ideas to his students. As a disciplined draftsman, she was nearly the equal of De Kooning and better than Rothko or Still. Her perspective on the culture of modernism was more intellectual than Pollock's. So their matching was not that of a passive muse...
...stringent purity of his vision and the economy with which he deployed it. Conservative radical, or radical conservative? Both, at different times. If he had recovered from his slump in the '20s and lived an other 30 years, he might have turned out to be the equal of Mondrian...