Word: mory
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...Tokyo shows were organized by a council of premier designers created by Yohji Yamamoto, Kawakubo, Miyake, Mitsuhiro Matsuda, Kansai Yamamoto and Hanae Mori to wedge the country's talent into the traditional fashion route: Milan, Paris, New York. Paris is still the major market, however, even for Tokyo's finest. "Showing there, from the design point of view, is more intense," Kawakubo says. "It's the first presentation of my new work in front of journalists from all over the world." These, however, are not the best of times for any design that makes demands on the initiative and imagination...
...TAKAYUKI MORI, 31, has a more cerebral approach to design. His Tokyo show was a presentation in his elegant shop, where the floor is covered in smooth white pebbles and a fountain bubbles up quietly as if from some deep Zen wellspring. Mannequins were hung with virtuoso variations of dresses and skirts cut from polyester satin and jersey, colored pale red, musky gold and worn white, in a pattern transferred directly from photos of rusted iron. "I'm neither anti-Western nor pro-Eastern," Mori explains. "I'm interested in making clothes that bring out the originality of the individual...
...hope," Miyake remarked toward the end of the Tokyo shows, "that my contemporaries and I will be the last to have to go to Paris." With Hishinuma and Onozuka, Kumagai and Takayuki Mori bidding to loom large on the Eastern horizon, it might be wise for everyone to start rearranging travel plans right...
...MORI WI WATCH (there is little worth listening to) the more we know: Roth puts his audience in the voyeuristic position that Eli and Blue assume in each other's lives. As friends they feel entitled to the other's every though and their every woman Wealthy macho Eli envies Blue's mysterious romantic success with women, and struggling Blue envies Eli's material success. Eacl, lives vicariously through the other and so neither is fully satisfied with himself. This complicated mixture of love and jealously, hate and loyalty, repeatedly erupts in unspoken competition for the same women. Cinematographer Michael...
...next year or the year after, and that possibility was finally more than they could bear. If the world is getting somewhat bored with Kremlin funerals, the men who act as pallbearers are surely terrified of them. Not only do the ceremonies serve as a kind of collective memento mori, but they are the outward manifestation of an inner process that must be highly traumatic. The Soviet leaders are among the most conservative on earth. They hate uncertainty, they loathe unpredictability. Leadership transitions are fraught with both. So this time around, they decided to cope with the dilemma by going...