Word: muscovado
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...health-food stores like Whole Foods and gourmet specialty outlets like Trader Joe's, Williams-Sonoma and Dean & Deluca. As a result, home cooks can now take advantage of the caramel, crunchy tang of large-crystal, raw-cane demerara from Malawi or the toffee-infused taste of dark, sticky muscovado from Mauritius. Simon Cutts, bulk-foods manager for the Wild Oats national specialty chain of natural-food stores, says the consumer demand for these sugars mirrors the organic-food boom, with sales growing at a rate of 25% a year. "Once customers taste these sugars," he says, "they find...
...America, saying "If you bake, you're really limiting yourself by using just white or brown sugar. And if you're an adult with a sweet tooth, you want something that's more than sweet. You want something with strength and flavor." She loves to use a light muscovado sugar for her butterscotch layer cake ("You get the butterscotch flavor by doing nothing except using that sugar") or for marinades ("The big flavor of smoky muscovado is brilliant for barbecue...
...those that are dyed," says Mary Canales, pastry chef at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif., which has a reputation for supporting small organic farmers and using minimally processed ingredients. Canales suggests using large-crystal demerara to add a crunchy topping to muffins or cookies; she also recommends dark brown muscovado as the perfect complement to simple baked fruit...
...little goes a longer way to satisfy a sweet tooth. "Refined sugar is cheap filler with no flavor," argues Gretchen Goehrend, founder and president of India Tree of Seattle, one of the first companies to bring these sugars into the U.S. "If you get a mouthful of dark muscovado, you're not going to forget that rich and wonderful taste. It makes the meal more satisfying, so you'll eat less...
...pastry chef and candymaker has modeled her artful patisserie after the neighborhood versions she visited in Paris during her tenure at Le Cordon Bleu. But specialty sugars have added a whole new dimension to her baking. There are little gems, such as her dainty financier cake made with pineapple muscovado jam; brioche that sparkles with demerara sugar; and kouing-aman, a buttery, caramelized cinnamon-flake pastry...
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