Word: mustards
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...mustard on side of mouth...
...Porter, Gibson really takes the suffering-for-your-art mantra to a new level, kind of like the Samaritan who lies down on the oil slick so you can walk on him to get over the puddle. With each new movie, he ups the ante, symbolically slathering more mustard on the dog so that it becomes more about how much torment he can take rather than about the movie itself. The evolution of this Method throughout his career shoves subtlety where it don't shine. Mad Max meets Martin Riggs meets Braveheart equals Porter, the con man with a heart...
Entrees offer the same bold flavors. A generous fillet of salmon is "lacquered" with sweet mustard and served atop a bed of tender miniature Beluga Lentils ($22). The salmon is served slightly translucent at the core, perfectly cooked but slightly ovepowered by the salty lentils. Oven Roasted Halibut balances its flavors better, topped with sauteed chanterelle mushrooms, baby lima beans and a sweet corn pudding. The tart lemony sauce metes out the sweetness of the corn pudding and the chanterelles complement the mild flesh of the fish...
...served atop a savory potato and wild mushroom cake, accompanied by a sharp rocquefort sauce and tangy onion marmalade. Wilted greens lightened the deliciously rich dish. Veal Brisket ($23) was entirely devoid of grease without being desiccated, matched by soft roast pearl onion polenta. Sliced, cooked pear in mustard sauce and lightly fried onion rings rested on a light, sweet, smoky sauce. Again, this entree far outmatched the appetizers. Though the preparation was complicated, the dish didn't evince the same schizophrenia as the appetizers. The tastes were balanced and fused comfortably into one another. The quality of the entrees...
Like sardines in mustard sauce, Harlan's accent has a taste whose enjoyment requires some concerted cultivation. At first whiff, the quirks of her character are so sharp as to be repulsive. Her prattling naivete as subtly disturbing as a toddler playing with a loaded handgun, Harlan gabs about everything from slavery to the aesthetic of rock-star fashion with the same maddening equanimity, made worse by her mingling of each topic's catch-phrases with the provincialism of her exaggerated Southern accent...