Word: mustards
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Entrees offer the same bold flavors. A generous fillet of salmon is "lacquered" with sweet mustard and served atop a bed of tender miniature Beluga Lentils ($22). The salmon is served slightly translucent at the core, perfectly cooked but slightly ovepowered by the salty lentils. Oven Roasted Halibut balances its flavors better, topped with sauteed chanterelle mushrooms, baby lima beans and a sweet corn pudding. The tart lemony sauce metes out the sweetness of the corn pudding and the chanterelles complement the mild flesh of the fish...
...served atop a savory potato and wild mushroom cake, accompanied by a sharp rocquefort sauce and tangy onion marmalade. Wilted greens lightened the deliciously rich dish. Veal Brisket ($23) was entirely devoid of grease without being desiccated, matched by soft roast pearl onion polenta. Sliced, cooked pear in mustard sauce and lightly fried onion rings rested on a light, sweet, smoky sauce. Again, this entree far outmatched the appetizers. Though the preparation was complicated, the dish didn't evince the same schizophrenia as the appetizers. The tastes were balanced and fused comfortably into one another. The quality of the entrees...
...narrative voice of Harlan Egalton in Gayl Jones' most recent novel is bold from the book's start, seeping out of the first pages with a flavor as pungent and distinctive as the mustard sauce sardines she nibbles when we first meet...
Like sardines in mustard sauce, Harlan's accent has a taste whose enjoyment requires some concerted cultivation. At first whiff, the quirks of her character are so sharp as to be repulsive. Her prattling naivete as subtly disturbing as a toddler playing with a loaded handgun, Harlan gabs about everything from slavery to the aesthetic of rock-star fashion with the same maddening equanimity, made worse by her mingling of each topic's catch-phrases with the provincialism of her exaggerated Southern accent...
Seared blackened tuna steak will probably never edge out jambalaya where it counts. But perhaps it should. Topped with lightly fried beer-battered shrimp, the succulent fish swam on top of a vaguely tangy mustard sauce. The plate was livened by spicy sauteed collard greens--or perhaps it was the more raffine kale--and mashed potatoes. The overstuffed pork chop was way too sophisticated to hearken back to grand-ma's recipe. It came stuffed with apple and andouille sausage which cohered around moistened breadcrumbs. Black plum ketchup provided a foil for the smoky, spicy meat. The same potato...