Word: naan
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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Bombay Club's breads are exceptional. The simple chapati, cooked on a griddle, was obviously just made, warm, tender, and tasting earthily of wheat. Rogini naan, touched with butter but otherwise plain, crisped on the ends. Papadum, sun-dried lentil crisps that had been roasted in the tandoori oven, crackled in the mouth, the sprinkling of black pepper giving a little zing...
...traditional Indian meal demands a healthy portion of naan--leavened bread baked in a tandoor oven-- to accompany the main course. The Club does not fail. Rogini Naan ($1.95) is lightly buttered and a welcome tonic to a mouthful of some of the spicier entrees. However, the mindful diner will not bother spending an extra dollar for Stuffed Kulcha, as the bread with cheese tastes almost exactly the same as its Rogini cousin. One can barely taste the cheese--in fact, the familiar smell of feet does not even accompany these curds...
Unfortunately for diners hoping to feel the burn, the brownish-gray Lamb Dopiaza ($12.95) did not live up to its fiery billing. Though marked with "two peppers" on the menu, the onions and green peppers in the dish did not make one reach for the naan. The lamb itself was chewy, though not grisly. The vegetarians in the group will win with this one, since the peppers and onions carry the entree and mix well with the saffron rice...
Although you do miss out on the attentive service, the $6.95 all-you-can-eat luncheon buffet on weekdays ($2 more on the weekend for the brunch) is the best way for most students to try the Bombay Club. The variety of dishes can be sampled quickly, the naan keeps coming and filtered water flows freely...