Word: nanning
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READINGS | Nan Levinson...
...have his Autobiography (Nan A. Talese/Doubleday; 289 pages), an artless but entertaining memoir, the story of a man, now 82, who says his father once warned him, "My boy, you'll end up in the gutter. All you think of is girls and photos." Where he ended up instead was Monte Carlo, with stops in London, Paris and Hollywood. He lived a life on the move, first as a young Jew fleeing from Hitler all the way to Australia, then as an ambitious photographer making his way back to the centers of the universe. His parents and brother escaped...
...Meanwhile, though the Hidden Tree, tel: (86-10) 6509 3642, is on bustling Nan Sanlitun, you're safe from tourists here. Its intimate patio also shields patrons from jumpsuited beer-promotion gals, DVD sellers, and teens tying one on before a club. Fresh draught European imports such as Hoegaarden and Duvel fill the thick beer menu?perfect for washing down the Hidden Tree's wood-fired pizza...
...Kashmir or Gujarat. The vast majority of Hindus consider themselves vegetarians; but it's the meat-heavy menus of the mainly Muslim Punjabis that are widely considered the apex of Indian cookery. Thus, most Indian restaurants offer tandoori chicken, lamb tikka and butter chicken?a popular curry?along with nan, lentil dishes and cottage cheese preparations for vegetarians. It's not a sophisticated menu, but it's tasty and satisfying?and that's the template the new breed of restaurateurs is trying to break. Here is a roundup of our favorites...
...cooked in a tandoor oven?and transform it into gourmet cuisine. The restaurant's look is pure Flintstones: walls of boulders, solid-wood tables and menus printed on laminated sections of tree. There's no cutlery either: you rip at great hunks of meat and swab it up with nan the size of a trash can lid. But don't let this modish coarseness fool you: there's nothing back-to-basics about the cooking. The tandoori jhinga?four colossal marinated prawns flavored with yogurt, red chilies, turmeric and garam masala?is sensational. And the sikandari raan, a whole...