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...This latest campaign for upstart Nolita clothing is perhaps his most self-conscious and multi-layered, marketing a woman's fashion line in an effort to expose the problem of anorexia in fashion marketing. Toscani says people react to it because many suffer from a kind of "social anorexia" of deprivation and disappointment amidst the abundance of modernity. The nude image of the emaciated 26-year-old French actress in poses we are used to seeing struck by fashion models is indeed relentless in its rawness. Toscani says. "I always try to strip away and strip away until I arrive...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Oliviero Toscani: Never Far From Controversy | 10/19/2007 | See Source »

...fashion world is all about timing, finding that perfect moment to launch the Next Big Thing. So it's not surprising that the upstart Italian clothing designer Nolita chose to unveil its latest ad campaign just in time for Europe's current round of catwalk shows for the spring-summer collections. But rather than politely join the parties in Milan and Paris, it has crashed them...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Furor Over an Anorexia Ad | 9/28/2007 | See Source »

...With a shocking photograph of a naked anorexic woman, shot by Oliviero Toscani, the eternal enfant terrible of fashion photography, Nolita's is the latest attempt to employ a formula that Toscani helped invent with Benetton in the 1980s: the use of provocative, socially conscious images to help hawk products. (And, in theory, the images attempt to accomplish the inverse as well: using consumerism to try to raise public awareness.) In the past, Toscani has used photographs of AIDS victims and death-row inmates in Benetton ads. But this time, the message is also targeted at the very industry that...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Furor Over an Anorexia Ad | 9/28/2007 | See Source »

...While public figures and several designers in Italy expressed support for Nolita's ad campaign during the Milan fashion week, the campaign has also drawn criticism as runways are set to open in Paris this weekend. Didier Grumbach, head of the French Couture Federation, lashed out at the fashion house. "I find this absolutely scandalous," he told the AFP. "Winning notoriety through people's illness is painful. What we're seeing here is sensationalism by a label, to the detriment of an extremely serious social problem...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Furor Over an Anorexia Ad | 9/28/2007 | See Source »

...French-born actress Isabelle Caro - who stands 5 feet, 5 inches tall (1.65 m) and weighs just 70 pounds (32 kg) - is accompanied by the words: "No Anorexia." Caro, now 27, says she has suffered from the disorder since she was a teenager. In a statement on its website, Nolita defended the ad, which has appeared on giant billboards and leading newspapers in Italy. "Toscani literally stripped his subject, to show everyone through this nude body the reality of this illness, which in the majority of cases is caused by stereotypes caused by the fashion world." Toscani, who says...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Furor Over an Anorexia Ad | 9/28/2007 | See Source »

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