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...governor was a cheerful former general who laughed off questions about his past service. The tribal elders had come to ask his help against Kurdish attacks on their people in Kirkuk, an hour and a half to the northwest, he said, adding he might have to send fighters if the raids continue. "Our tribes are well armed", the governor remarked. "Very well armed," I countered, remembering the group of Ajil tribesmen just outside Tikrit who had briefly detained me in mid April, when the city fell during the U.S. invasion of Iraq. Marwan, who had heard the story, filled...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Letter from Tikrit: Still Armed and Dangerous | 6/5/2003 | See Source »

...historians, there's a weird irony in Cambodia's decrepit infrastructure. In the 12th century, King Jayavarman VII built highways that had few equals on earth. They can be seen from satellite photographs (although from the ground, few traces are apparent), with the longest running some 220 kilometers northwest to Phimai, in modern-day Thailand...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Roads to Ruins | 5/12/2003 | See Source »

This road, I've been told, leads to paradise. Everyone says my journey to the pristine village of Yubeng in the northwest corner of China's Yunnan province will take my breath away. I'm breathless alright. But for all the wrong reasons. My minivan is careening along a tiny ledge of compressed rubble, gouged out of a steeply pitched ravine, a few hundred meters above a tributary of the Mekong. I'm convinced I'm seconds away from becoming part of one of the small avalanches the van is leaving in its wake...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Paradise or Parking Lots? | 5/5/2003 | See Source »

...Will tourism help protect China's natural wonders or destroy the places that visitors are bused in to admire? Northwest Yunnan, which has made its first forays into ecotourism, is a perfect place to find out. Through it run branches of four of Asia's major rivers?the Yangtze, the Mekong, the Salween and the Irrawaddy. Between their banks soar some of the fastest-growing mountain ranges on earth, which in turn harbor the world's most biologically diverse temperate forests. Since 1998, when a large-scale ban on commercial logging axed 80% of Yunnan's income, its local governments...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Paradise or Parking Lots? | 5/5/2003 | See Source »

Dead wrong. The 3.3 million-acre Death Valley National Park--about 300 miles northeast of Los Angeles and 120 miles northwest of Las Vegas--is a major tourist attraction set in one of the most beautiful and varied terrains known to man. It's filled with Wild West history, year-round social activities and amenities ranging from campgrounds for the RV crowd to the historic Furnace Creek Inn & Ranch Resort for first-class comfort and Old World charm...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Travel: Death Valley Delights | 4/28/2003 | See Source »

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