Word: ocher
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...over several legs and days), juddering past sawmills, plywood factories, rusty shipyards and timber barges heading downriver to the South China Sea. The alternative is a bumpy Land Rover ride from Bintulu, a coastal oil town three hours away, much of it on a rutted logging road past denuded ocher hills cleared to make way for palm-oil plantations. These have driven the area's economic boom, but also fuelled its cultural decline. (See pictures of Hong Kong...
...Imperial Suite on its top floor - has been supplemented with two perfectly matching wings, which in total make for 122 guest rooms. Each features a terrace that overlooks either the waters of the Perfume River or the distant stone towers of the former Imperial Citadel. Decked out in warm ocher, dark woods and raw Vietnamese silk, the rooms exude good taste, but the suites in particular benefit from wooden four-poster beds and themed décor that can depart, rather fancifully, from local tradition - one draws its inspiration from ancient Egypt, creating a setting worthy of a swashbuckling Tintin...
...canvases had dulled the poignant narrative impact of the two paintings. A magnificent restoration, begun in 2000, revived the original colors so that crimson blood in the two works shimmers as if still wet and the rich blues of the French uniforms stand out against the dusty ocher of the militamen's trousers...
...desolate track. Resist the urge to ignore it - it leads to one of the world's most celebrated rock-art sites. Scrawled across immense boulders and along cave walls are 30,000-year-old images of stick figures and animals such as crocodiles, snakes and tortoises, in shades of ocher. The prehistoric images were discovered in the 1960s by Percy Trezise, an artist and bush pilot. These days his son Steve, a painter and rock-art expert, occasionally leads tours around the sites. "These paintings tell the stories of Aboriginal myths and legends," he says...
...gazelle meander around the grounds and, if you're lucky, quench their thirst in your own private pool. The spa and airy suites have gorgeous views of the desert, and there are easels, paper and pastels for those who want to capture that exact shade of sand (golden, ocher or russet, depending on the time of day). A dedicated field guide, one of three staff assigned to each suite, helps you choose activities, from falconry to horseback riding to nature walks. The four-wheel desert drive is a must for all but the most queasy - the dunes are high...