Word: offalness
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...Griffiths also credits British chef Fergus Henderson, author of The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating, and the "master of offal," Food Network star and San Francisco chef Chris Cosentino, for getting people used to the idea of pig as an almost entirely edible beast. This passion for offal is a sign of Americans awakening to eating whole hog, Griffiths says, and bacon is the door opener. "People try to outdo each other," he says. "'I'm serving lamb testicles,' one person will say. 'O.K., I'm serving the spleen,' another says...
...Rationing in Britain during and after World War II meant people ate more simple foods, says Day. Families stopped passing on their offal recipes, and people eventually became squeamish about such dishes. "We became a nation of muscle-devourers, confining our carnivorous activities to the brown stuff that came in neat, little polystyrene trays with some cling-film over the top of it to make it look neat and tidy," he says. Many types of offal, especially brains, were banned when mad-cow disease struck in the late 1990s. Day says the revival now might be a sign of people...
...long history of offal eating. "We once were a nation that ate everything," says Ivan Day, a food historian who specializes in British and European cuisine. Lancashire, an industrial area in northwest England, is famous for its offal dishes, including liver, kidney, tripe (the lining of a cow's stomach), cow's heel, sheep's trotters and elder (cow's udder). There were more than 260 tripe shops in regional capital Manchester a century ago, many of which sold faggots, a traditional English dish made from a mixture of pork liver, fatty pork and herbs wrapped in an intestinal membrane...
...Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, the author of several cookbooks and host of the River Cottage series on British television, also touts offal as an alternative to prime cuts. Recent episodes of the show included footage of a whole pig being butchered, with Fearnley-Whittingstall demonstrating how to cook every piece of the animal, a practice he encourages...
...other corners of Europe, where offal never really disappeared from the menu, eating organs is reaching new heights of popularity. Sales are up in Spain and have increased 15% in France over the past three months. France's National Federation of Offal Merchants is encouraging the trend with an annual, month-long promotion involving well-known chefs and the publication of a book of offal recipes from prestigious restaurants...