Word: ohrbach
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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When the sumptuous 110-model spectacle was over, buyers and clients rushed to the dressing room, where the shy, soft-spoken couturier was waiting with his mother Lucienne. "Formidable!" his admirers gasped. "It will change the future of fashion," declared Ohrbach's fashion consultant, Sydney Gittler, adding portentously, "What Saint Laurent is saying is 'Ladies, put a match to your closets because you've got to go out and buy something...
Bohan's collection was possibly the best he has assembled in his 30 years in couture. "Poetry," cooed Vogue Editor Grace Mirabella. "Out of this world," said Ohrbach's Sydney Gittler, who plans to copy Bohan's so-called ponchos, or cape coats, which were the talk of the show. Though Bohan maintains that "the richest people these days are the ones who avoid looking luxurious," his deluxe sport daytime clothes are made of opulent materials-alpacas, cashmeres, vicuña-that cost upwards of $100 per yd. His evening designs are quietly sumptuous. Sum black sheaths...
Buyers from a score of countries were on hand in Paris to look over the fashion parade, and their reaction was a mix of ecstasy and caution. "It was the best couture season in ten years," said Ohrbach's Sydney Gittler. "The chemise will sweep America." Some, however, took a less upbeat approach. Gloomed Spoilsport Clovis Ruffin of Ruffinwear...
Despite the strong emphasis on the dress, the couturiers offered plenty of pants. Many buyers were especially impressed by Givenchy's creations in black crepe. Often heavily cuffed, they were so loose, free and floppy that they looked almost like skirts when in motion. Says Sidney Gittler of Ohrbach's: "They are the widest shown anywhere and they look wonderful...
...collections in Paris were the purest couture I've seen in years," notes Ohrbach's Sydney Gittler. "The workmanship is so perfect that I'll have difficulty having it done in the U.S." Still smarting from their unhappy attempts to meld high fashion with ready-to-wear, designers seemed completely unbothered by the prospect of greater exclusivity. "We have models here with thick necks or broad hips or short legs," says Esparza. "I hide these faults with my clothes. That is couture, and that is why ready-to-wear can never take its place...