Word: oman
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...Muscat's handful of museums give a good sense of Oman's history and traditional crafts. However, Omanis are proud also of their recent past and are just as likely to encourage a visit to the new towns of Ruwi and Qurm. Just beyond the mountains that enclose Muscat, they are testament to the measured development policy of Sultan bin Qaboos, who overthrew his isolationist father three decades ago. Ruwi is home to a number of five-star beach hotels, as well as scores of new government buildings and residential areas. The most impressive sight is the enormous Qaboos Grand...
...From Ruwi, it's easy to plan day trips or expeditions into the interior. Frequent buses run to the inland ancient capital of Nizwa, and private cars or tour guides can be hired to drive into the desert. In Oman's vast interior, austere rock and sand dominates, but oases, green orchards and plentiful wildlife offer beautiful contrasts...
...went to Southern Arabia only just in time," he wrote. "Others will go there to study geology and archaeology, the birds and the plants and animals, even to study the Arabs themselves, but they will never know the spirit of the land nor the greatness of the Arabs." Modern Oman proves Thesiger partially wrong: it still offers an Arabia worth visiting and Arabs worth knowing. But should you long for old Oman, bring along Thesiger's book Arabian Sands. You can journey through the Empty Quarter without having to risk your life?or your vacation...
SOUK SCENTS Long before petroleum was discovered in the Middle East, Arab trade was dominated by incense, fragrant resins and perfume woods?and Oman, as the center of this trade, prospered. It may seem something of a contradiction that Omanis, given their conservative customs, would indulge in the extravagant and heady scents of rose oil, musk, sandalwood, myrrh and frankincense. But a trip to the souk, or traditional market, in Muttrah quickly reveals this penchant for perfume is not just an aesthetic pleasure?it's big business with a long history. Omanis have been extracting frankincense from the Boswellia carterii...
...These traditional fragrances were the inspiration for Amouage, one of the world's most expensive scents. Created by Frenchman Guy Robert, who has fashioned perfumes for Chanel and Dior, Amouage combines more than a hundred natural oils?including silver frankincense from the Dhofar region of Oman, and rock rose, which grows on barely accessible Omani hillsides. Amouage comes in clever minaret-shaped bottles decorated with traditional Omani designs. One of these gold and leaded crystal bottles will set you back about $3,000 in Paris or London, so you might want to opt instead for a $5 bottle of scented...