Word: ono
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...Humphries, along with teammate Jill Ono, deserves special credit for having played over the weekend. Both played on the team last year, but elected to focus on swimming this year instead. Injuries, though, kept the duo from participating in either sport most of the winter...
...rare break from his kitchen, Ono greets customers in his restaurant's russet-colored dining area. He helped conceive the design, which with its chenille banquettes and straw-flecked walls looks like a cross between a Paris bistro and a Japanese teahouse. The chef even created the green- and brown-glazed plates, vases and cups in a pottery studio set up in the basement. The plates, too, have an East-West theme: a rough Japanese-influenced edge surrounds a perfect, Western-style circle...
...label Sono, you'd call it French with a Japanese accent. Ono, a burly Tokyo native with slicked-back hair and a beard, trained at the four-star L'Orangerie in Los Angeles. "Japanese cuisine is a cuisine of ingredients; French cuisine is one of technique," he explains. "So I combine the two. I'll take pompano and marinate it in miso, which preserves and enhances the flavor. That's very Japanese. Then I'll turn to French technique in how I cook it." Ono points to his salmon dish: he cures the fish with salt and ginger, adds...
...Ono concedes such extreme tampering with traditional recipes would be viewed as not quite kosher in Japan. But as Nish of March sees it, mixing and matching international cuisines is what Americans do best. Like many Americans, Nish himself is a mix. His ancestry happens to include Japanese (the name Nish is short for Nishimura, changed by his father to duck anti-Japanese sentiment). Growing up in Queens, Nish watched his father and his Maltese mother try to recreate dishes from home. "They always had to substitute ingredients," he recalls. "But that didn't mean the dish had less integrity...
...Ono found this out the hard way when he opened his restaurant last year. His first dessert menu offered kuzukiri, glassine noodles made from the starch of kudzu leaves. It flopped. "Alas," he says, "they were not ready...