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Coober Pedy, the Opal capital of Australia, is about 525 miles north-northwest of Adelaide. You fly there on a little 19-seater plane that stops first at a uranium-mining town called Olympic Dam, a cluster of machinery and huts in absolute flatness--red desert all around. As soon as you get out of the plane (which has to refuel), you are assailed by millions of flies. The fly biomass of central Australia must be 10 times the biomass of humans or kangaroos. You at once start doing the irritable wave of the hand known as the outback salute...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Fella Down a Hole | 7/5/1999 | See Source »

Coober Pedy is Aboriginal for "white fella down a hole." Opals were discovered here, lying on the surface, by a 14-year-old boy back in 1915. He was looking for water but instead kept tripping over the "floaters," as surface opals are called. Few floaters are seen now; the opals are all underground, embedded in deep layers of soft sandstone. This whole area, millions of years ago, was ocean floor. So it is relatively easy to mine, and since opal mining is entirely an individual business, like California gold mining back in 1849, it has never been industrialized...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Fella Down a Hole | 7/5/1999 | See Source »

Indeed, it can't be. The big mining companies--which the opal miners hate, along with the government and the cops and the tourists--have never devised a profitable means of detecting or extracting opals. It's handwork. You just stake a claim and start digging. Sounds simple, but the trouble is that none of the conventional geological spotting techniques apply. Opals don't react chemically with the stone matrix around them, and they don't leave the "traces" that gold or diamonds do. So it is a matter of digging and digging and digging. One spot is as good...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Fella Down a Hole | 7/5/1999 | See Source »

...miners with whom I spent a night drinking in the clubhouse of the Coober Pedy Golf Club are full of stories like this--you can place an explosive charge, set it off and find that you've blown a quarter-million bucks' worth of opal to worthless dust, the texture of coarse sugar, because you didn't know it was there. Then you just go and have a drink...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Fella Down a Hole | 7/5/1999 | See Source »

Then, just before landfall, Opal had another change of heart. She fizzled. By the time the storm crossed the coast, its winds diminished by at least a third. Until then, however, it fit Jarrell's vision of what the Big One will be like: traffic jams and cars blown wholesale into storm-surge waters. "I'm afraid you're going to drown hundreds if not thousands of people," says Jarrell. "And it's going to happen some time...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Waiting For Hurricane X | 9/7/1998 | See Source »

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