Word: operas
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This bluesy wallop of an album is filled with songs about grotesques, but there's no danger of its turning into a rock-opera Winesburg, Ohio. That's because front man E (Mark Oliver Everett) chooses humor over bathos ("Ma won't shave me, Jesus can't save me," he growls on the superb Dog Faced Boy). Which is not to say he's snide; Friendly Ghost and Woman Driving, Man Sleeping are as sweet as anything in the James Taylor songbook--they're just not saccharine. The lyrics float over an array of power chords, samples, overdubs and scratches...
...some of the oldest and best dim sum eateries in the world. The four most famous restaurants are sprawling multistory affairs that include arcades, ponds, lakes and full-grown trees, even parks. Before ka-raoke halls took over, they were the epicenter of local nightlife, and live Cantonese opera was performed regularly. These days, the music is piped in, but the food's as good as ever...
...since reopened and resumed religious services. Walk east along Shamian Nan Jie about 200 m, past the old Butterfield & Swire offices?the Jardine Matheson godowns were up the street to your left?and you're at the former British consulate, built in 1865. Retirees often practice Cantonese opera in the park across the street...
...excellent selection in its Broadway and Vocalists section of uncommon recordings from the recent as well as not-so-recent past. One can find on the site the recording of Bea Arthur on Broadway, a show that opened just last month, as well as the 1954 Threepenny Opera featuring the young Arthur...
...friends and foes alike." Next to Andrassy Avenue is a stylish stretch of elegant 19th century neo-Renaissance and neo-Baroque mansions where wealthy locals, including the composer Franz Liszt, once lived. One building along Andrassy that is worth a stop is the famed and richly ornate State Opera (visits daily at 3 and 4 p.m.), once the preserve of Habs-burg monarchs. At the end of the long avenue...