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...plan to ease into major U.S. cities was partly inspired by another cultish brand. Kiehl's, the iconic New York City pharmacy founded in 1851, waited 150 years to open its second store. Soon after being bought by L'Oreal in 2000, the company, whose products were already widely available in top-tier department stores, set up a stand-alone boutique in San Francisco. Kiehl's has since moved into a handful of other U.S. cities, but don't look for it in your local mall anytime soon. Likewise, by the end of next year, Lush plans to open...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Retail: Lush Is In No Rush | 10/13/2003 | See Source »

Launching a fragrance may seem simple: design a bottle, fill it with juice, paper the planet with ads. But if you listen to Patricia Turck Paquelier, below, head of the Prestige and Collections International division of L'Oreal in Paris, tell it, creating a fragrance to match the carefully crafted images of designers like Giorgio Armani and Viktor & Rolf is no easy task. After all, designers make clothes for the select few, but a perfume has to appeal to the masses, not to mention the egos of the designers involved...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: 3. Patricia Turck Paquelier | 8/28/2003 | See Source »

Turck Paquelier is one of the few senior executives L'Oreal has hired from the outside. After 13 years at Procter & Gamble and five at Yves Saint Laurent Parfums, she was chosen by L'Oreal to balance the needs of designers and of L'Oreal chairman and CEO Lindsay Owen-Jones. In Turck Paquelier's first six years at the company, she tripled L'Oreal's Armani business. By 2002, the brand was bringing in about $429 million a year in sales...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: 3. Patricia Turck Paquelier | 8/28/2003 | See Source »

...only interested in big things. Not small things. Not niche brands," she says. Which is strange, because it was Turck Paquelier's decision to sign up the small Dutch fashion house of Viktor & Rolf. "They want to be famous," she insists. Certainly a fragrance backed by L'Oreal will help in that regard. But what's in it for L'Oreal? Turck Paquelier and Owen-Jones hope that the Dutch duo will attract inventive managers and researchers to the company. They also want the designers to keep them on their toes. "We like that they are creative and innovative," Turck...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: 3. Patricia Turck Paquelier | 8/28/2003 | See Source »

...they were happy to hire her on a job-to-job basis but, in contrast to the rewards given her white colleagues, never signed her to a contract. Companies are more likely to link their products to known personalities, like Revlon with Halle Berry and Lucy Liu or L'Oreal with Beyonce Knowles...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Role Of Race | 8/28/2003 | See Source »

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