Word: osetra
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...then winning contests like Bocuse d'Or aren't even really about cooking, in the strictest sense. They're about theater, about spectacle and the ability to produce towering showpieces like Kent's "Scottish salmon with osetra caviar and sauce Fumet Blanc garnished with roulade of salmon with king crab and meyer lemon relish, and chilled salmon mousse with salmon tartare and salmon roe" in the minimum time. "The people that win [Bocuse d'Or], their food is so over-the-top," says Kent. "The [Bocuse d'Or] dish needs to be a showstopper. It needs to make...
...nothing like beluga. "It's like a $10 wine compared with a $350 wine. You can't compare the two," sniffs Zaslavsky. Sturgeon Aquafarms isn't the only fish in the aquacultural sea. Kevin Hopkins, director of aquaculture at the University of Hawaii, distributed his first batch of Hawaiian osetra caviar in February, after raising the sturgeon for 10 years; he hopes to have Hawaiian beluga caviar within a decade...
...Patroon are treated to a dramatic flambeed steak Diana and flaming bananas Foster. And at Terrance Brennan's Seafood & Chop House, also in New York City, breakfast is enlivened by the table-side preparation of steel-cut oatmeal or creamy scrambled eggs with lobster, black truffles, smoked salmon and osetra caviar. --By Lisa McLaughlin
...beluga ban wouldn't affect Asian restaurants and food stores: they can always buy from European suppliers. Hong Kong's House of Fine Foods, the territory's largest caviar importer, says its customers are already content with such lesser grades as osetra and sevruga caviar, which come from the same region as beluga. "We do get requests for beluga," says managing director Gephard Scherrer, "but out of the 1.5 tons we import, only about 80 kilograms is beluga." Strict controls started in 1998 have already boosted caviar prices. Tokyo had several specialty caviar restaurants before the Japanese economy deflated. Only...
...caviar snobbery gives way to environmental concerns, some top chefs are giving up on not only beluga but also osetra and sevruga. More than 100 U.S. chefs and retailers have signed a letter to Interior Secretary Gail Norton supporting a beluga ban. Among them is Rick Moonen, former chef of New York City's Oceana, who recently opened a new seafood restaurant called RM. "I always had Caspian caviar on my menus," says Moonen. But when he noticed a decline in the quality of Caspian caviar a few years ago, Moonen started shopping for alternatives. His menu currently features Blue...