Word: oslofjord
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...explain. Oslo, like the non-raisiny bits of the bun, is usually considered nice - nice but dull, all muted colors, leafy parks and elegant 19th century mansions. But look past the main tourist draws: the Viking Ship Museum; the 14th century Akershus Fortress, which has guarded Oslofjord through nine sieges; the sculpture garden with Gustav Vigeland's 14-m-tall Monolith, a phallic column of 121 writhing human figures. The city has plenty of other artistic, architectural and even culinary gems - the raisins in the bun. You just have to know where to walk. Step one: cross the Aker River...
...late summer afternoons, fleets of private boats jam the Oslofjord; in winter, thousands of Norwegians spend their weekends on the country's ski slopes or on quick trips to resorts in balmy Spain. About 75% of all Norwegian families own their homes and close to half also have vacation retreats-a cottage on the coast or a cabin in the mountains. The humble Volkswagen has been dethroned as king of the road, replaced as Norway's best-selling car by the more luxurious Volvo...
...Netherlands see no member of the press. Norway's sailor King Olav, 72, never gives formal interviews. TIME'S Dag Christensen, also a sailor, saw him recently on the water, where he failed to give Olav's red sloop Bingo right of way on the Oslofjord, and earned an icy glare from his monarch...
...Oslofjord's deck, as she poked up The Narrows of New York Harbor last week and eased into quarantine, paced an authentic-looking Viking. He was Able Seaman Eugen Knutsen, burdened for a reception tableau with a shirt of mail and the weight of 938 years of Norse legend. At quarantine, Viking Knutsen received a visitor. She was Rosebud Yellow Robe, sprightly, college-bred great grandniece of Sitting Bull. Last week Rosebud mislaid her peace pipe but gave sheepish Leif a beaded tobacco pouch and the welcoming ceremony was over...
...saltier of the Oslofjord's visitors were interested by her duplex bridge, with all the essential instruments of the enclosed lower portion duplicated on a hurricane bridge above. On the bridge no great spoked wheel governs the Oslofjord's, helm, but a modern button-control system-a button for port and one for starboard. To the suggestion that old-line Norse steersmen might prefer the traditional twirl of the wheel to this newfangled steering, weathered Captain Kjeld Irgens, commodore of the Norwegian America fleet, had a gruff answer. "Quartermasters," said he grimly, "shall learn to like...