Word: oven
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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Conversation in Italian flows as freely as the tomato sauce at Tonda, where Neapolitan chef Michele Sceral - whose family has been firing pizza for more than a century - bakes his pies in a revolving, wood-burning, $30,000 oven heated to nearly 1,000 degrees. Giraldi says his goal with Tonda is to elevate pizza from "the merely good, to the truly great." Sceral's individually portioned results include pies loaded with curious combos including roasted eggs, speck, asparagus, mozzarella and tomatoes ($15) and a carb-loaded potato, pesto and string bean...
...salad strewn with shredded duck confit, plump dried cranberries, and pickled shallots, is delicious and a good deal as an entrée. Most things are shareable, including an array of grilled flatbreads and local littleneck clams, both done in the restaurant’s snazzy stainless-steel woodfire oven. In true pub form, the bar is cocktail-free, but excellent draft and bottle beers, and well-priced European wines abound. The huge storefront windows onto the heart of the Square give the dimly-lit room an inside/outside feel (as if you’re actually part of some scene...
...just need to have some cereal and wait.”She gives up on the offer and opens the cutlery drawer to get me a spoon instead. In so doing, she dislodges a turquoise bra that’s stuck in the corner where the drawer meets the oven. Dangling it up to the snowy light on the end of a knife, she asks, “Do you drink a lot?”“Yeah,” I reply.She looks like she’s about to say something but then just shrugs...
Next door to Talay is Covo (www.covony.com), a massive warehouse of a joint where the wood-burning ovens deliver around a dozen types of pizzas - from prosciutto crudo to Treviso (radicchio, gorgonzola and walnuts) - and the fresh sea bass is marinated in white wine and oregano before being baked whole in a brick oven...
...find gratification in small things," says Sienatra, fondly known to regulars as Felix the Chef. In the case of the Wind Chime, that attitude translates into fastidiousness (think personalized menus and elaborate presentation) and food that is prepared slowly, with obvious dollops of love and care. The oven-baked chicken with veal sweetbread and mushrooms that we tried was the highlight of an eight-course set meal spread over two hours. The à la carte menu, including a wonderfully traditional Scotch broth, is similarly made for lingering over. "This is not a place to come...