Word: ovens
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Preheat the oven to 350° F. Beat the eggs, milk, 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper in a large bowl. Add the bread cubes and let soak until softened, about 15 minutes...
Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook just until the center is set - firm to the touch - about 25 minutes. If the edges are set and beginning to brown before the center is set, remove the frittata from the oven and finish the frittata under a preheated broiler...
...perceptive as Davies can find honor and poignancy in the domestic chores of those days: feeding the fire, scrubbing the stoop, washing clothes by hand. Accompanying the images is a liturgical choir, consecrating the drudgery or, at least, sanctifying the memory. "And on Christmas Eve, pork roasting in the oven, the parlor cleaned, with fruit along the sideboard: a pound of apples, tangerines in tissue paper, a bowl of nuts and our annual, exotic pomegranate. Do you remember? Will you? Will you ever forget...
...Motorino, the chef is mixing the old (a classic wood-fired oven) with the newfangled: toppings such as sweet peas and guanciale ($14) or brussels sprouts with speck ($14). "Forty percent of our diners still order the classic Margherita," Palombino concedes. "Which is why we focus on the best basics - crushing our own tomatoes, making our own mozzarella, using the highest-quality flour for our dough. It's all very old school...
...merely a chef - he's the president of the American chapter of the Associazone Pizzaiouli Napoletana, which trains and certifies master pizza-makers. Unsurprisingly, Keste's pizzas are all-Italian - tomatoes, cheeses and flour from the homeland, slid for a minute each into a 1,000-degree volcanic stone oven. There are 18 Keste pies in all - including the Keste, a proscuitto-loaded extravaganza doused with extra virgin olive...