Word: ovens
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Conversation in Italian flows as freely as the tomato sauce at Tonda, where Neapolitan chef Michele Sceral - whose family has been firing pizza for more than a century - bakes his pies in a revolving, wood-burning, $30,000 oven heated to nearly 1,000 degrees. Giraldi says his goal with Tonda is to elevate pizza from "the merely good, to the truly great." Sceral's individually portioned results include pies loaded with curious combos including roasted eggs, speck, asparagus, mozzarella and tomatoes ($15) and a carb-loaded potato, pesto and string bean...
...Lahey trades his usual loaves for crust - round, thin and fired in a 900-degree oven like they're done in Naples, occasionally charred and consistently topped with surprises. The Flambé, for instance, oozes richly with mozzarella, parmesan, caramelized onions and fatty lardons - swimming in a shallow sea of béchamel sauce ($16). Less liquid, is the Stracciatella, piled high with arugula, crushed tomatoes and its namesake cheese, and dusted with a fine coat of freshly ground black pepper ($17). And the aptly-named Popeye pie is another cheese-intensive endeavor, with ample fresh spinach atop a pecorino...
...salad strewn with shredded duck confit, plump dried cranberries, and pickled shallots, is delicious and a good deal as an entrée. Most things are shareable, including an array of grilled flatbreads and local littleneck clams, both done in the restaurant’s snazzy stainless-steel woodfire oven. In true pub form, the bar is cocktail-free, but excellent draft and bottle beers, and well-priced European wines abound. The huge storefront windows onto the heart of the Square give the dimly-lit room an inside/outside feel (as if you’re actually part of some scene...
...just need to have some cereal and wait.”She gives up on the offer and opens the cutlery drawer to get me a spoon instead. In so doing, she dislodges a turquoise bra that’s stuck in the corner where the drawer meets the oven. Dangling it up to the snowy light on the end of a knife, she asks, “Do you drink a lot?”“Yeah,” I reply.She looks like she’s about to say something but then just shrugs...
Next door to Talay is Covo (www.covony.com), a massive warehouse of a joint where the wood-burning ovens deliver around a dozen types of pizzas - from prosciutto crudo to Treviso (radicchio, gorgonzola and walnuts) - and the fresh sea bass is marinated in white wine and oregano before being baked whole in a brick oven...