Word: oxtail
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...vats of unidentified soupy stuff on the other. No sign of labels. Rather inconvenient for the uninitiated. But with a bit of gastronomic guesswork I was able to match most of the dishes with the items listed on the menu. The star of the spread was definitely the Beef Oxtail. The meat was unbelievably tender, the kind of tender where you practically don't have to chew. It had a piquant, peppery flavor with a full-bodied beefy sauce that can only be produced through hours of patient simmering. Very tasty. Also quite good was a chicken stew that...
...grabs a church and paints with the church," wrote a poet of the cubist era, Blaise Cendrars. "He grabs a cow and paints with the cow . . . He paints with an oxtail/ With all the dirty passion of a little Jewish town/ With all the exacerbated sexuality of provincial Russia." Soutine? Strangely enough, no: Marc Chagall...
...immaculate. Elsie's is uncomfortable. When there are more than about nine people, you have to eat standing up. But Elsie's has good food at low prices. Spectacular food. Creme cheese and caviar sandwiches. Chopped liver. Beer Wurst. Knackwurst, Bratwurst. Wurst Salad. Just plain Wurst. Knackwurst, Bavarian oxtail soup. Danish Cakes. Cheese cake. The fast, efficient members of the counter gang have the dedicated air of European innkeepers. People who patronize Elsie's are serious about eating and only the uncouth order hamburgers. They like Cossack hats, don't laugh very much, and are of an intellectual bent. They...
...paints with an oxtail...
...paints with an oxtail...