Word: pagans
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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Once the sun sets, Pagan is transformed. The heat dissipates, replaced by a cool, invigorating breeze that calls out for an evening stroll. The reward is a brilliant display of stars undiminished by city lights. And should disorientation set in, the ever- present hawkers, many of whom live at the temples, are happy to set misguided travelers back on the right path home...
...ROAD Aside from tourism, Pagan's main industry is the confection of jaggery, or palm sugar. Hundreds of small palm plantations crowd the Pagan Plain, each tended by a family that taps its livelihood from high up in the fronds. The thin, sweet sap is boiled down in large vats to make a dark, flavorful sugar sold at roadside stands. But for the real treat, look beyond the woven palm baskets filled with the golden lumps for the flask bottles of potent palm toddy?the sap that is collected in the afternoon, after fermenting all day in the sun. Unrefined...
...forest to a natural spring can be arranged for about $10 an hour. Given the resort's isolation?it can get creepy at night?and reasonable prices elsewhere in Burma, $100 a night is somewhat steep. But once there, when compared with the heat and hard sell of Pagan, the cool breezes, beautiful views and tranquil setting feel priceless; fax (95-62) 70368 for reservations...
BUDDHA IN THE BACKYARD Enter the stone gates of the Bagan Hotel and you could be forgiven for thinking you've stumbled upon yet another reconstructed temple. The elaborate teak and brick reception hall is built in the ancient architectural style. Wedged between the major sites of old Pagan and the banks of the Irrawaddy River, the resort is a shady oasis of fragrant flowering trees and rustic guesthouses, which blend with their sacred surroundings. Built in the wake of the government's 1996 Visit Myanmar Year campaign, the resort is run by the enigmatic Juergen Dieter Voss, who, with...
...garden to visit a pair of 11th century temples, one of which houses a well-tended golden Buddha. It's a place to get away from it all, literally. "It would be easier to take tea with the Queen," says Voss, "than to get a phone call through to Pagan." For reservations, don't ring, but e-mail baganhotel@myanmars.net...