Word: pancetta
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...than a red sauce with sausage and lots of onion. The selection is helped by toast points which do well at absorbing just enough but not too much sauce, but even at that, one might as well be sopping up spaghetti sauce. The oeufs poches over rosemary bread with pancetta and hollandaise sauce is a tasty variation on eggs benedict, that brunch-time staple, although the bread could be more substantial so as to better complement the liquidity of the sauce and eggs...
...with such offerings as "Fried Green Tomatoes with Peeky Toe Crab and Spicy Cucumber Louis Sauce ($13)." Fried green tomatoes, sure, yet peeky-toe crab radically changes the complexion of the dish. Foie gras from Hudson Valley is another appetizer, toned down into a 'sandwich' on homemade brioche with pancetta and dried cherries ($14). Alternatively, a dish enigmatically billed as "Pumpkin" ($6) is served inside a real hollowed out pumpkin. Side dishes remain a bit truer to the Harvest theme: A Crock of Boston Baked Beans ($4), Wild Mushroom Pot Pie ($6) even House (rather than home) Fries...
...suppose that answer also covers pancetta, scrapple and barbecued hog shoulder," I said...
...simmering sauce of endives, smoked pancetta and double cream fills the wood-beamed Venetian kitchen with its aroma. Bits of baby lamb are soaking up the flavor of juniper berries and white wine. Strings of homemade tonnarelli are drying nearby. Standing over her restaurant-size range, Marcella Hazan looks with mock astonishment at six blushing students. "You don't cook? What do you do? Starve?" It is her standard line when Americans complain that they don't have time to prepare real meals. "I despair," she says, waving a sauce-laden wooden spoon...