Word: parbat
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...Heinrich (Pitt), glamour boy of an empire mad for mountain climbing, joins an expedition to scale Nanga Parbat in eastern India. The troupe is led by Peter Aufschnaiter (David Thewlis), but Heinrich will say sir to no man. He pays no attention to his own severe pain, little more to the safety of his comrades. Failing to reach the summit, they are taken as prisoners of war by His Majesty's Government in India. Four times Heinrich tries to escape; each time security is increased. When Peter determines to get out, Heinrich thumbs a ride on the jail break...
...sport's acknowledged master began knocking off the highest mountains in 1970, when he scaled Nanga Parbat (26,657 ft.) in the glacier-shrouded western bastion of the chain. Then he climbed Manaslu (26,781 ft.) in central Nepal and Pakistan's Gasherbrum I (26,470 ft.) with Peter Habeler, a longtime climbing partner. In 1978 Messner and Habeler, now 44, climbed oxygenless to the summit of Mount Everest (29,028 ft.), and the mountaineering world gasped. In 1979 Messner went back to the Pakistan-China border and conquered K2 (28,251 ft.), the world's second highest mountain...
...never used oxygen in his life, he says with a trace of pride. But he offers freely the opinion that his memory has been dulled by long periods of oxygen deprivation. There have been other prices. His brother Gunther died in an avalanche while climbing with him on Nanga Parbat, in the Himalayas. Messner has lost several toes and parts of three fingers to frostbite. And he admits that it was not worth it. "If somebody had told me, on the next expedition you will lose your toes, I wouldn't have gone. But you don't know...
...became known as the "Italian mountain," as Everest was the British, Nanga Parbat the German, Annapurna the French. (In the '305, Americans joined in on K2. reached 26,000 feet in 1938, 27,000 in 1939, 25,800 in 1953.) Professor Ardito Desio had climbed with the Duke of Spoleto. The professor is a mild-mannered little man with a Punch-andJudy nose and a mountaineer's reputation of being "stubborn as sin." Last spring Desio organized another Italian expedition, with eleven mountaineers, five scientists and a Pakistani army colonel...
...repairs on his teeth, Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas dropped into a dentist's chair, decided it was as good a place as any to reel off some mental floss. Samples : 1) he considers this month's successful assault of Kashmir's Nanga Parbat by German climbers a "far tougher'' feat than the Hillary-Tenzing conquest of Everest; 2) Syngman Rhee is the "George Washington" of Korea, and deserves America's sympathy and support, as does Mohammed Mossadegh, "the first great ruler in [Iran's] history to have been raised...