Word: parise
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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The ranks of the locavore movement, which promotes the use of locally grown produce, have been swollen in recent years by green chefs hoping to reduce their carbon footprints. But in famously gastronomic France, the trend has been surprisingly slow to catch on. In Paris, where restaurant menus boast langoustine...
The new Terroir Parisien menu at Alléno's three-star Hôtel Meurice restaurant is the product of two years of collaborative research with Le Monde food writer Jean-Claude Ribaut and fine-food suppliers Alexandre Drouard and Samuel Nahon of Terroirs d'Avenir. Scouring archives and...
For Alléno, French gastronomy "was born in Paris," thanks to the myriad produce once widely grown in the city's immediate region, the Ile-de-France. But with postwar urbanization and the arrival of Nouvelle Cuisine in the late 1960s, with its emphasis on unusual and often foreign...
To make the old recipes sing again, Alléno and Terroirs d'Avenir found the last producers of many of Ile-de-France's traditional vegetables, spices and meats: l'aspèrge d'Argenteuil, a sublime variety of violet-tipped asparagus, today produced by a single family; champignons...
Now with produce in hand, says Alléno, "we try to imagine what Parisian cuisine would have become today if it hadn't been abandoned." One wonders why it ever was after tasting his fillet of sole with Paris mushrooms, based on the Normandy sole first served in the...