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...rural England is one fashioned by sweat and privilege and kept green by death and dung. So, even if over the last 25 years Goldsworthy, now 50, has traveled far from home (and his fame has spread even further), there is no more fitting home than the Yorkshire Sculpture Park for the biggest-ever exhibition of his work, old and new, which runs until...
Straddling 2 sq km of verdant gardens and farmland, much of it a former lordly estate, the park boasts several galleries and a stunning outdoor collection of modern sculpture, including some fine Barbara Hepworths and Henry Moores. It's also home to 137 sheep, for whom Goldsworthy has built a sheepfold contain-ing a massive stone slab on which human visitors can lie to create "rain shadows." Else-where on the estate he has raised a series of dry-stone wall enclosures where giant fallen oaks hang. Paradoxically, for all the open air, it's Goldsworthy's new indoor works...
...Berber touches - along with some first-rate walking - sounds tempting, then look no further. Morocco's High Atlas range is a stunning destination, and easier to reach than you'd think. From Marrakech, it's a mere 90-minute drive up a winding valley road to the Toubkal National Park. Before you know it, you're sipping mint tea atop a sun-drenched terrace ogling the Djebel Toubkal, North Africa's highest peak...
Though created in 1942, the Toubkal park remains - charmingly, you could argue - in its infancy when it comes to signposts. Your best bet is to hire a local guide or, if you don't want to deal with logistics, Original Travel's excellent "big short break" arranges transfers and accommodation, www.originaltravel.co.uk. Our trailhead started at tiny Imlil (1,800 m), where the biggest municipal parking lot seemed to be the one reserved for mules. Fortunately, some of the "Berber four-wheel drives," as they're known locally, arrived to ferry up our bags - but we hoofed it to the impressively...
From Imlil, any number of mule trails lead into the park's rugged inner regions. Some Berber families now offer half-board lodging for as little as $12 a night. But for those looking for a bit more pampering, the Kasbah recently opened a cozy three-guest-room lodge, the first of its kind in the park, where host Omar welcomes hikers with a hearty handshake and a basin of rose water. A simple refuge overlooking a traditional village of flat-topped mud and stone houses, it was a perfect overnight stop on a two-day hike into...