Word: passard
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...need a chef at all? Or three-star (or any) restaurants? Every chef has his story he likes to tell of eating a boiled chicken some Swiss farmer gave him once, and how perfect it was. But he doesn't measure himself by Swiss farmers. He looks at Alain Passard, whose three-star Paris restaurant treats vegetables as if they were as precious as plutonium. He looks at Japan's Yoshihiro Narisawa, who recently demonstrated a method of using sawdust broth, twigs and wood strips to cook venison. He looks at the young Spanish prodigy Andoni Luis Aduriz...
...Colagreco, who has worked with all the French heavyweights (Bernard Loiseau, Alain Ducasse, Guy Martin, and especially Alain Passard), is based in the town of Menton on the French Riviera, just moments from the Italian border. His restaurant Mirazur has a stunning hillside setting, housed in a vast Modernist, three-story white rotunda with 360-degree views of the Mediterranean. The produce of its steeply terraced herb-and-wildflower garden and a citrus grove make a huge impact in the kitchen. "I believe vivid improvisation is key," says Colagreco, who adds new dishes daily according to whatever's ripe...
...Alain Passard's decision in 2001 to transform his three-star Paris restaurant l'Arpège - famous for its slow-cooked T-bones, lamb and duck - into a temple to the vegetable raised many an eyebrow in the world of haute cuisine. For the erstwhile master rôtisseur, however, it constituted a culinary rebirth. "Vegetables were a resurrection for me," Passard says. In seeking to define "the first vegetable haute cuisine," Passard has since created such signature dishes as beetroot in croûte de sel and onion flambé with pears and praline sauce. But perhaps...
...like Les Fines Gueules, www.lesfinesgueules.fr, where owner Arnaud Bradol serves up creations such as beetroot raviole of seasoned crab splashed with truffle oil. Meanwhile, at Racines wine bar, www.morethanorganic.com, owner Pierre Jancou is among the few privileged chefs to get their produce from the garden of none other than Passard, www.alain-passard.com, who created the 10-acre (4 hectare) Fillé-sur-Sarthe plot in 2002 to realize his ambitions for l'Arpège, and grow the types of extraordinary vegetables that today are changing the vocabulary of contemporary French cuisine. "We're still at the beginning," says Passard...
...SINGAPORE Michelin stars will crowd the firmament over Singapore the week after Milan for the Food Wine and Arts Experience at the landmark Raffles Hotel (Jan. 30-Feb. 3). Among those on hand will be Thomas Keller from the French Laundry in Napa Valley, California; Alain Passard from L'Arpège in Paris; Santi Santamaria from Can Fabes in Catalonia and Nicolas Le Bec from Lyon. Wineries from world-renowned regions including Chateau Haut-Brion from Bordeaux and Frescobaldi from Tuscany will host tastings, and German painter Hella Nohl will discuss red wine's place...