Word: pasta
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...think you've heard the last word on pasta, then you have not read Giuliano Bugialli's new work, Bugialli on Pasta (Simon & Schuster; $24.95). This time the exacting cooking teacher presents a magnificently clear illustrated work not only on the rolling and shaping of pasta but also on the preparing of artichokes, squid and other ingredients that go into sauces. In time for winter entertaining are such irresistibles as the pappardelle (wide noodles) with duck or lamb and cannelloni plump with a wild-mushroom stuffing...
...raised their prices before they started paying more for their raw materials. But many producers have not yet hiked their prices; when they do, further retail increases are likely. The devastation of the durum-wheat crop in North Dakota, for example, is bound to result in heavy markups on pasta. The Agriculture Department maintains that the inflation rate for food this year will stay within its predicted range of 3% to 5%, but that forecast is looking increasingly wishful...
Crisis time in Rome. Had another government fallen or the lira tumbled? Worse. Thanks to a ruling issued this month by the European Community's Court of Justice, Italy's lasagna may go limp and its fettuccine flaccid. For a nation that eats its pasta al dente, or firm to the tooth, such news is hard to swallow...
...decision struck down a 1967 law that requires all pasta sold in Italy to contain durum wheat flour, which is firmer and more expensive than other varieties. Italians, of course, will still be able to buy their favorite pastas, but their grocery shelves will also contain what the newspaper La Repubblica called "gluey and insipid pasta from Germany or the Netherlands...
...Italians found the ruling indigestible. Said Restaurateur Aldo Di Cesare, who owns a popular Rome eating place and admits somewhat sheepishly that he can consume more than 2 lbs. of pasta a day: "We're going to wait and see what the other stuff tastes like and, if it's better than ours, I for one will buy it." Buon appetito...