Word: phraya
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...savory fillings) and khanom thuay (tapioca flour and coconut milk steamed in porcelain cups). Just about everything is $1 or less. The mall is also a good option for those shopping for a picnic on the grounds of a temple or a lazy boat trip up the arterial Chao Phraya River. Try the squishy bread flavored with pandanus leaves, steamed squash filled with coconut milk custard, rice flour pancakes wrapped around minced nut, or the coconut cream dessert corner, guaranteed to test the boundaries of anyone's glucose tolerance. Another great stop is the Aw Taw Kaw on Kampeng Phet...
...Thais themselves inadvertently pulled the plug. Their 200-year-old capital began as a trading village in swampy lowlands on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. Natural and man-made klongs (canals) provided transport and natural drainage. After World War II, economic growth lured hundreds of thousands of workers to the city, and newly prosperous Bangkok took to the automobile with a vengeance. In the scramble for road space, most klongs were filled...
Since the Chao Phraya's waters are committed to the irrigation of farm land, Bangkok will have to pipe in its water supply from a river some 60 miles to the west...
...revived to celebrate the bicentennial of the founding of Thailand's ruling Chakri dynasty. No fewer than 51 of the mammoth regal barges were restored, at a cost of $3.5 million, to transport King Bhumibol Adulyadej, 54, ninth of his line, and his entourage along the Chao Phraya River. For months, 2,180 cadets and officers of the Thai navy had worked strenuously to perfect their oarsmanship. Their main worry: the barges are notoriously unstable, and the slightest mistake could have resulted in a regal dunking...
...pits. The jet age has made Bangkok the air hub of southern Asia, the halfway house for round-the-world trippers from the U.S. It is also rest and recreation for a carefully regulated 500 G.I.s at a time, on leave from Viet Nam. Some float down the Chao Phraya to visit Bangkok's Floating Market. A few are interested in watching the Thais fly their fighting kites-the national sport-or catching a Thai boxing match, where flailing feet are used as much as hands. Most make a beeline for Bangkok's myriad bars and massage parlors...