Word: pilati
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...pivot awkwardly in their seats to make room for their linebacker shoulder pads. Not since Tess McGill suited up to outwit her boss in Working Girl in 1988 have big shoulders played such a prominent role in fashion. For fall, designers like Michael Kors, Donna Karan and Stefano Pilati of Yves Saint Laurent showed structured jackets, enlisting the signature '80s power tool to try to give shaky consumers some self-assurance--and, they hope, a reason to shop...
...industry is to survive, we can't work in a self-feeding, inward-looking circle of the privileged. We must look wider than that. I love floaty gowns on a catwalk, but we need more than that if fashion is to be relevant.' ?Stefano Pilati, creative director, Yves Saint Laurent...
...grunge. This time around, fashion's mood swing has a decidedly sharper edge, as designers like Nicolas Ghesquière of Balenciaga, Alber Elbaz of Lanvin and Narciso Rodriguez are trading in last season's brights for severe black cocktail dresses and structured suits. At Yves Saint Laurent, designer Stefano Pilati dressed his models in black bowl-cut wigs and black lipstick to give his simply spliced jackets and tunic dresses a somber, graphic edge. Even Christian Lacroix, famous for his flamboyant use of color, opened his fall show with a parade of models in all black...
Tall and exuberant, Pilati complains of years of frustration and insecurity at YSL?until Hermann came along to relieve some of his burdens. That his new partner was a woman was an advantage: "A CEO who is your age, who is a man, might be a sort of competition," he says. "I have to be the public image of the house; he couldn't. With Valerie, actually, now I don't have tensions. I have challenges, even when we disagree...
...than placid. They are on the phone several times a day and go over everything together from fabrics to budgets. But he says he can't always cope with her directness. "Sometimes I yell at her," he says. She doesn't yell back. Rather, she displays a coldness that Pilati tries to get past by "opening up and being more charming. I make fun of myself and make her laugh. She has a big sense of humor...