Word: pizzas
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Conversation in Italian flows as freely as the tomato sauce at Tonda, where Neapolitan chef Michele Sceral - whose family has been firing pizza for more than a century - bakes his pies in a revolving, wood-burning, $30,000 oven heated to nearly 1,000 degrees. Giraldi says his goal with Tonda is to elevate pizza from "the merely good, to the truly great." Sceral's individually portioned results include pies loaded with curious combos including roasted eggs, speck, asparagus, mozzarella and tomatoes ($15) and a carb-loaded potato, pesto and string bean...
...moment, Caporuscio is keeping his eye on the pies, but ultimately plans to offer 10-day, $4,000 pie-making courses for up-and-coming pizzaiouli. But until then, you'll have to make do with just being a customer of these new pizza pleasure dome, whose imagination and technique might actually outshine the competition back in Naples. "There are no shortcuts at work here," says Motorino's Palombino. "Pizza is now a far more serious food than it was in the past...
...taking pizza back to its roots," declares Mathieu Palombino, chef-owner of another Neopolitan-inspired pizzeria, Motorino, which opened within weeks of Co. last fall, in the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn - "a place for big ideas and small budgets," he says. A Belgian-born Italian, Palombino trained in some of New York's most discerning kitchens - Bouley and BLT Fish (where he earned a Michelin star) - before learning to make pies with Verace Pizza Napoletana Americas, a California-based training institute, international certification body and the official U.S. representative of the original, authentic Naples pizza...
Across the bridge, near Grand Central Station, the brand-new Golosi (Italian for "gluttons"), which opened in April, serves pizza along with its most beloved Italian cousin, gelato, in 28 house-made flavors - including the creamy, addictive nutella. The pizza "pies" are shaped like small surfboards, with crusts mixed from imported Neapolitan flour and sinful strutto, a rendered pork fat. Once sauced and baked, they're sold by the inch - 99 cents to $1.50 per inch, three-inch minimum. Early hits include the mozzarella-only Biancaneve...
...weeks-old Keste Pizza and Vino in the West Village, easily the most orthodox of the city's new pizzerias, there are no distracting desserts - just old-fashioned pizza and wine. Owner Roberto Caporuscio is not merely a chef - he's the president of the American chapter of the Associazone Pizzaiouli Napoletana, which trains and certifies master pizza-makers. Unsurprisingly, Keste's pizzas are all-Italian - tomatoes, cheeses and flour from the homeland, slid for a minute each into a 1,000-degree volcanic stone oven. There are 18 Keste pies in all - including the Keste, a proscuitto-loaded extravaganza...